fbpx

NEW LOW PRICE!!! 1x6 Standard Grade Eastern White Pine Tongue & Groove Siding is only .95 l.f.

Sashco FAQ’s2019-02-05T15:07:53-05:00
Who do I contact if I have a problem with the App?2021-01-18T15:38:28-05:00

If you are experiencing problems with our app, please contact us at sales.logcabinsforless@gmail.com or call us at (423) 636-0045

My site is pretty much on top of a mountain. Will your trucks have any problem getting to it?2020-07-28T12:34:38-05:00

That’s very possible. In fact we caution every customer that, if there’s any question about site accessibility, an alternate unloading site should be identified prior to the arrival of the delivery truck(s). Each driver is responsible for his or her equipment, safety, the safety of others at the unloading site, and also bears in mind the possibility of damaging the road or any other property. So he or she makes the call when they arrive and check out the access, the unloading area, and the egress.

How much does it cost to build a log home?2019-12-08T18:38:44-05:00

Another question that we get asked often is “How much does it cost to build a log home?”

Wow, talk about a loaded question. There’s so many answers to that one question, and there’s also just one simple answer. My answer would be “It all depends on who you talk to.”

If you talk to a contractor in beautiful Gatlinburg, Tennessee, they’ll tell you that the going rate is 185 dollars per square foot, not including foundation, decks, or porch costs. That’s just RIDICULOUS!!!

If you google “How much does it cost to build a log home?”, you’ll be told that in most instances, you can expect to pay between 125 to 175 dollars a square foot

I still believe those numbers can be high, however, that’s taking in mind that you don’t participate in any of the building whatsoever. I really don’t know anybody that would want nothing to do with the building process. Log home enthusiasts are a special kind of person, they want to be “hands on” on the day to day operations of building their log home.

Here’s what I tell our customers when they ask how much it’ll cost to build their new dream home……

“For what you can build a good quality frame home, you can build a good quality log home!!!”

There, I said it, but let me explain for my reason why……

  • No matter what kind of house you’ll be building, you’ll still have excavation costs
  • No matter what kind of house you’ll be building, you’ll still need utilities run into your home
  • No matter what kind of house you’ll be building, you’ll still need a foundation
  • No matter what kind of house you’ll be building, you’ll still need plumbing and lighting fixtures
  • No matter what kind of house you’ll be building, you’ll still need flooring

Guess you see where I’m going with this, you’ll still need all these things. And because you’re building a log home, it shouldn’t mean its going to cost extra

Here’s another thing to keep in mind. When you (or your contractor crew) stacks your logs, they’re actually saving you the materials and labor cost on the following:

  • 2×4/2×6 exterior frame walls
  • Outside sheathing
  • Outside siding, brick, stucco, etc
  • Interior sheetrock

As the old saying goes “The more you do, the more you save” couldn’t be more true. So save yourself some serious money, as well as time, by doing the shopping yourself!!!

Also, get quotes from log home builders, as well as references. Don’t settle on the first one that comes around, shop around. The contractor crew that we recommend charges around 30,000 dollars for a 26 x 36 with loft dry-in.

Building a log home shouldn’t cost more, they just want you to pay more…

When is the best time to build?2019-12-08T17:23:19-05:00

In the 20+ years that we have been involved in the log home industry, We hear the same thing over and over when we ask folks when they’re wanting to start building. “In the spring” is without a doubt the phrase that we hear over and over again. But let’s think about this; is it really better to begin construction in the spring? Yes, the weather does seem to be much more favorable, but what else can you expect to have if you wait until spring to start building???

* Higher prices for building materials. Think about it, if everybody waits until spring to begin building, that drives the demand for building materials up, thereby increasing costs

* Harder to find the kind of materials you need, because everybody else needs them too

* Harder to find workers to build your home. Everybody else needs them, so you’ll have wait in line. This means it will take longer to build your home

* When subs (plumbers, electricians, HVAC, etc) are in high demand, that usually means that you’ll pay more. But by building in the winter, a lot of times it means that you can get it done cheaper, they have bills too

What can you tell me about Log Cabins for Less?2018-11-11T14:19:17-05:00

The team at Log Cabins for Less has over 25 years combined experience dealing with customers all over the nation, and beyond. Though the company is still young, it is the experience and commitment to our customers that help to form a lasting relationship with our customers for years, long after their home has been built. We have even had customers come to work with us, making our team that much better, enhancing the customers experience, while building their dream log home. We are proud to be members of the better business bureau, with an A+ rating

So what sets Log Cabins for Less apart from other leading log home companies?2018-11-11T14:39:19-05:00

Even though we are happy to quote any floor plan you may have, most of the packages we sell are for modestly priced homes. Many times our customers are “paycheck to paycheck” kind of people.  So many people dream of building their own log home but end up buying from another log home company where they end up paying thousands of dollars more than they would if purchased from LCFL. Other log home companies include in their packages items that we suggest the customer purchase locally (such as 2 x 4”s, roofing felt, windows if shipping is long distance, etc.) in order to save on shipping charges and to prevent possible damage, especially since our packages ship to all parts of the U.S. and beyond.

Are your logs kiln dried?2018-11-11T14:39:28-05:00

Absolutely! Some of the benefits of kiln drying include that all insects, eggs, bug larvae, mold and fungi are killed in the process. It also minimizes log shrinkage, plus no harsh chemical treatments are needed for kiln dried logs, as it sanitizes them.  Finishes penetrate deeper and are longer lasting which also adds strength to the logs.

Will my logs have cracks?2018-11-11T14:39:37-05:00

Cracks in logs are known as “checks,” and are a natural occurrence in log homes.  A check is a crack in the surface of the log, which does not go through the diameter. Checks are small and do not present a structural problem in the home. Checks can be small or they can be rather long and noticeable. Usually they are considered a characteristic of logs, adding to the rustic appearance. However, checks on an upward curve can possibly collect rain or snow and should be sealed. Checks on a lower curve can be sealed if you choose. We do offer a Sashco product called Conceal that works perfectly for checks and it’s available in a variety of colors. It can be used inside or outside.

Can you provide cedar logs?2018-11-11T14:39:46-05:00

Yes, we can provide Western Red Cedar which is air dried or Northern White Cedar which is kiln dried.  Please call for current pricing.

Why have your prices gone up so much recently?2018-11-11T14:39:56-05:00

Originally, we were only pricing the logs, log screws and foam tape in our packages.  But recently we changed the format to include stains and sealants, floor plans and much more. Please see lists of included items with each package.

How can I know if this type house will be approved in my area? What type of permit will I need?2018-11-11T14:40:06-05:00

A regular building permit should be sufficient. However, once your local building codes official has looked at our plans, our designer will work with them and make modifications if necessary,  to ensure that your home is compliant; meeting all building codes.

Do you have pictures of cabins that have been built?2018-11-11T14:40:16-05:00

Yes, please follow this link:  https://www.logcabinsforless.com/photo-gallery/.  If you don’t see the plan you’re looking for, please ask as we don’t currently have all of them posted.

Do you do turnkey?2018-11-11T14:40:25-05:00

Log Cabins for Less does not do the building but we can provide a list of possible builders for you. We can also provide almost all the building supplies you will need for a turnkey home including doors, windows, flooring, log railing, beams and more.

Are your cabins custom made or prebuilt and cut?2018-11-11T14:40:34-05:00

Our cabins are not pre-built or pre-cut. All logs are random lengths of 8′ to 16′ and all cutting is done on site. We can do custom packages according to what you need, in other words, we will sell just the logs, screws and foam tape or we will provide a package with just what you want.

Is there a way I can estimate shipping for budgeting purposes to my location without requesting an actual shipping quote?2018-11-11T14:40:43-05:00

In most cases, you can figure on $3.00/mile from Greeneville, TN to your location. This will give you an approximate cost only.

Will you sell only a wall kit?2018-11-11T14:40:56-05:00

Absolutely; as little or as much as you want.

Why aren’t your logs numbered as in most log home kits?2018-11-11T14:41:07-05:00

Most customers wish for a unique and personalized log home according to their budget and comfort. Even if you choose one of our floor plans, modifications can be made at no additional charge if the changes are minor. Or you may choose to change the location of a door or window and with our packages that is possible, but not so in a pre-built and pre-numbered kit.  Or you may have your own floor plan or sketch that you wish to build from. In any case it’s our intent to provide you with a log home you have dreamed of.

Will my log home package come with instructions and/or videos?2018-11-11T14:41:21-05:00

We plan to make instructional videos in the very near future on how to build your new log home. Until then our team of experts are there for you every step of the way to answer any questions you may have, to guide you from beginning to end.

Do you have a showroom or model for viewing?2018-11-11T14:41:31-05:00

We have a showroom at our location at 406 North Irish Street in Greeneville Tennessee. Also, we are currently in the process of building our future model home / sales office at 15195 West Andrew Johnson Highway in Bulls Gap, Tennessee. Come see us, we’d love some help!

Can someone assemble your packages without being a professional?2018-11-11T14:41:43-05:00

Most of our customers have never built a log home before but with a bit of research and instructional help from our team; have been very successful at building their cabin by themselves. Please check our reviews.

What is NOT included in your packages?2018-11-11T14:41:54-05:00

Log Cabins for Less is not a big box store. We provide specialty building products to customers throughout the US. With that said, we do not provide framing material such as 2×4’s, 2×6’s, plywood, etc. We also don’t provide plumbing and electrical fixtures as well. We can, however, provide you with quality building products, well below the prices that your local building will give you. These products include:

  • Tongue and Groove products for your interior walls
  • Matching log siding for a detached garage, Utility buildings, and she-shed that she’s been wanting
  • Trim Boards
  • Wood flooring, both pre-finished and finished
  • Solid Knotty pine interior doors, with matching closet doors. Customers can choose their choice of hinge finish, at no extra charge
  • Complete line of kitchen cabinets, thousands below the big box stores
  • Northern white cedar log railing- great for that rustic look
Are your chinking and caulking compatible with my stain?2018-07-23T00:09:14-05:00

There are many stain on the market with which our products will work well. In general, our products are compatible with other water-bases. Some oil-bases are OK, too. For information on compatibility with your specific product, contact Customer Service.

Are water-based products bad?2018-07-23T00:08:09-05:00

If by “bad” you mean poor performing, no. Some water-based stains (like our Capture Log Stain / Cascade, Transformationg Siding & Trim, and Transformation Deck & Fence) will perform very well if good surface preparation is done and if they are applied in appropriate weather. On the other hand, it is also true that solvent-based stains (oil-based stains) are more forgiving when less-than-excellent surface preparation is done and when the weather is not as ideal.

I used Sierra on my logs in the past, but now you’re saying it’s better for siding and trim and selling it as Transformation Siding & Trim. So what’s the scoop?2018-07-23T00:07:16-05:00

Transformation Siding & Trim (formerly High Sierra) is still a great stain for logs. It will perform just as well as it has in the past. Much like cars, technology improves over time. That is the case with stains for log homes. Since we first made High Sierra, stain technology for logs has improved. We know that both Transformation Log & Timber and Sashco’s Capture / Cascade system will last longer on logs, a much harsher environment for a stain than traditional wood siding. So, when it’s time to strip and re-stain your log home, use those products and you’ll have less maintenance over time. But for those customers who insist on a matte finish, Transformation Siding & Trim is certainly an option.

If you want to, feel free to use Transformation Log & Timber and Sashco’s Capture / Cascade on your wood siding for even better longevity and less maintenance. These stains are proven to stand the test of time on logs, a much harsher environment than wood siding. If they can last on logs, they’ll last even longer on wood siding.

In the end, the longevity and look you want will ultimately determine which of our stains you choose.

Are there fungicides and mildewcides in your stain?2018-07-23T00:05:41-05:00

Yes. However, in many parts of the United States and Canada where the humidity and temperatures are high and mold and mildew is more prevalent, it is recommended to add additional fungicide to the stain. Sashco recommends Stay Clean I/E (available through Sashco resellers).

Are there fungicides and mildewcides in your stain?2018-07-23T00:04:34-05:00

Yes. However, in many parts of the United States and Canada where the humidity and temperatures are high and mold and mildew is more prevalent, it is recommended to add additional fungicide to the stain. Sashco recommends Stay Clean I/E (available through Sashco resellers).

Brushover is no longer available. What should I use instead?2018-07-23T00:02:27-05:00

You can now make your own chink paint using Log Jam and water. Visit the Log Jam page to download the instructions.

Are your stains and caulking compatible?2018-07-23T00:01:19-05:00

Yes. All of Sashco’s products are formulated to be compatible with one another. In fact, when our chinking and caulking are used with our stains, we give the chinking and caulking a limited lifetime warranty.

Are your chinking and caulking compatible with my stain?2018-07-23T00:00:24-05:00

There are many stain on the market with which our products will work well. In general, our products are compatible with other water-bases. Some oil-bases are OK, too. For information on compatibility with your specific product, contact Customer Service.

Are your stains and caulking compatible?2018-07-22T23:59:16-05:00

Yes. All of Sashco’s products are formulated to be compatible with one another. In fact, when our chinking and caulking are used with our stains, we give the chinking and caulking a limited lifetime warranty.

Can I apply stain on top of your chinking and caulking products?2018-07-22T23:58:08-05:00

Yes. Most all stains, and certainly all of Sashco’s stains, will adhere to both our chinking and caulking products. However, because those products are not porous like wood, the stain will not soak into it like it does to the wood and will give you a different look, so be sure to TEST FIRST to make sure staining over top will give you the desired look.

Do not stain over top of the chinking or caulking with an oil-based stain for at least 2 weeks to allow the product sufficient curing time, and up that to 1 month if staining over top with an oil-based polyurethane. With water-based coatings, 2 days’ cure time is usually fine.

Are your chinking and caulking compatible with my stain?2018-07-22T23:57:00-05:00

There are many stain on the market with which our products will work well. In general, our products are compatible with other water-bases. Some oil-bases are OK, too. For information on compatibility with your specific product, contact Customer Service.

My house looks good, except on one side it looks weathered. I like the weathered look on my home, but someone told me it was rotting.2018-07-22T23:49:13-05:00

That “weathered” look – gray and/or yellowed wood – is really erosion of the wood. Freshly-cut, debarked wood is white to very light yellow in color. As wood starts to weather, its color shifts from a deep golden color, to gray, and can then become almost black in color in the latest stages of weathering. The wood surface is deteriorating due to UV radiation, oxidation and water damage. Actual wood fibers are weakening and detaching from the main body of the log. It is best to remove all of this weathered wood and then re-stain. Otherwise several major problems are likely to occur

How should I prep my home that already has stain on it?2018-07-22T23:47:45-05:00

That will depend on what is on there and what condition it’s in. A light pressure wash may be all that’s needed if everything is in good shape. If there are significant areas of peeling stain, bare and/or gray wood, etc., a vigorous power wash or media blast will be needed.

Contact Customer Service at 1-800-767-5656 to discuss the particulars of your situation. Be sure to click here to download a copy of our booklet called “Keeping the Dream Alive” that goes through the steps of finishing a log or wood home from beginning to end.

How do I maintain my chinking and caulking?2018-07-22T23:46:41-05:00

When installed properly according to directions, chinking and caulking don’t take much in the way of maintenance. It is always good practice to check for any loss of adhesion or center tearing so that you can repair it immediately, preventing any water and insect infiltration in those areas. You may also want to periodically clean the surface for appearance’s sake. You can clean your chinking and caulking lines with soap and water. Stubborn areas can be scrubbed with a nylon brush and water.

How do I get rid of mold/mildew on the surface of my wood?2018-07-22T23:45:43-05:00

Try these methods first:

1) Apply CPR in the brightener strength (4 parts water to 1 part CPR). Apply according to directions. Thoroughly rinse.
2) Or, apply fresh bleach in a 4 parts water to 1 part bleach solution. Allow to sit no more than 10 minutes, then thoroughly rinse.

If those don’t work, chat with us or call us. There may be other issues at play that need to be considered.

In all cases where mold/mildew is a problem, be sure to use an extra mildewcide in any future coats of stain. We recommend Stay Clean I/E.

My chinking or caulking is torn. How do I fix it?2018-07-22T23:44:32-05:00

Repairing torn chinking or caulking is really rather easy. First, use a razor knife to slit the chink or caulk line a bit further to release pressure on the bead. Then, clean the surface by wiping it down. Gun new chinking or caulking over the torn area (as long as you’re using more of the same Sashco product),then smooth (tool) the new product, feathering it out onto the exisitng bead. If no backer rod was applied, you may need to cut out the torn area, install backer rod, and then follow the remaining steps as noted above.

Are your stains and caulking compatible?2018-07-22T23:43:31-05:00

Yes. All of Sashco’s products are formulated to be compatible with one another. In fact, when our chinking and caulking are used with our stains, we give the chinking and caulking a limited lifetime warranty.

Can I apply Conceal before I stain to get a better match?2018-07-22T23:42:38-05:00

Possibly. It is best to apply the closest color Conceal after all staining is complete, so long as you’re using a compatible stain. Because most stains are relatively rigid, when they’re applied over a flexible material like Conceal, the stain will crack (unlike the Conceal) when the joint moves. When that happens, the Conceal will still be there, but the cracking stain will be over top. At least the first time around, it’s best to apply the caulk very last. Obviously, when it comes time to maintain your stain, you’ll have to stain over the caulk and just keep your eye out for any cracked stain over the caulking.

Are your chinking and caulking compatible with my stain?2018-07-22T23:41:38-05:00

There are many stain on the market with which our products will work well. In general, our products are compatible with other water-bases. Some oil-bases are OK, too. For information on compatibility with your specific product, contact Customer Service.

Can I use Transformation Log & Timber over top of Capture Log Stain?2018-07-22T23:39:51-05:00

If the Capture Log Stain is in good shape, meaning there are few, if any, areas of bare wood and little discoloration, it is best to stick with what you started with. If, down the line, you have to completely strip the stain and are down to bare wood, it would then be OK to switch to any of our other stain products.

It is not wise to use an oil-based over top of a water-based stain because most water-bases are much more elastic than oil-bases. As the wood moves and breathes, the oil-based stain will be more rigid than the water-based stain and may cause the water-based product to peel under the pressure of being pulled with normal movement.

Can I put Transformation Siding & Trim over Capture Log Stain/Cascade?2018-07-22T23:38:31-05:00
For maintenance, it would be best to use more Capture Log Stain and Cascade (or just Cascade, if the Caputre is still in good shape). If and when you need to completely strip the home down to bare wood, you can certainly choose at that time to switch to one of our other stain products.
Can I mix Cascade and Capture Log Stain?2018-07-22T23:37:08-05:00

No, mixing the two will reduce the performance of both.

If Capture Log Stain collects a lot of dust on the exterior, won’t it do the same on the interior?2018-07-22T23:36:11-05:00

Capture Log Stain alone will remain relatively tacky compared to Capture Log Stain that is also top-coated with Cascade. A coat of Cascade on the exterior, or Symphony on the interior, will greatly reduce or eliminate this problem (plus enhance the overall appearance dramatically).

If you want to, feel free to use Transformation Log & Timber and Sashco’s Capture / Cascade on your wood siding for even better longevity and less maintenance. These stains are proven to stand the test of time on logs, a much harsher environment than wood siding. If they can last on logs, they’ll last even longer on wood siding.

In the end, the longevity and look you want will ultimately determine which of our stains you choose.

How many coats of Capture Log Stain/Cascade should I use? Why?2018-07-22T23:34:57-05:00

On the exterior, spray on and back brush in 2 HEAVY coats of Capture Log Stain. Follow that with 1 heavy coat of Cascade, sprayed on with runs brushed out. When the product is applied heavily it is able to build sufficient film thickness to protect the wood and provide several years of good performance. One coat is generally too thin, leading to less durability, which means more frequent re-staining will be necessary.

On the interior, one coat either brushed or sprayed on is sufficient, followed by one to two coats of the Symphony clear coat.

How do I tell if my logs are dry enough to stain?2018-07-22T23:33:54-05:00

There is no good way to know for sure unless you use a moisture meter that is designed for measuring the moisture wp-content of wood. If a moisture meter is not used, then there is always the risk that there is too much moisture in the logs.

Depending on your location, the moisture wp-content of your logs should be between 5-19%. (For example, in the super-dry and hot southwest Arizona, 5% is the safer number. In coastal Alaska, 19% is going to be about the norm.)

Can I apply Cascade by itself?2018-07-22T23:32:51-05:00

No. Cascade should not be applied by itself, unless re-coating over Capture Log Stain. Cascade has UV filters in it, but they are very mild. They are designed to protect the underlying stain, not all of the wood. Pigments are truly necessary to protect your wood from UV damage.

Can I put clear sealer on my logs?2018-07-22T23:31:47-05:00

If the clear sealer is only for the interior of the structure, that’s fine. If you are intending for this clear sealer to be the only coating on the exterior of the building, then we strongly discourage you from using it. Clear “stains” or sealers have virtually no UV protection and can lead to your wood being exposed to harsher elements, such as moisture and insects.

Can I put Transformation Siding & Trim over Capture Log Stain/Cascade?2018-07-22T23:29:52-05:00

For maintenance, it would be best to use more Capture Log Stain and Cascade (or just Cascade, if the Caputre is still in good shape). If and when you need to completely strip the home down to bare wood, you can certainly choose at that time to switch to one of our other stain products.

How many coats of Capture Log Stain/Cascade should I use? Why?2018-07-22T23:28:40-05:00

On the exterior, spray on and back brush in 2 HEAVY coats of Capture Log Stain. Follow that with 1 heavy coat of Cascade, sprayed on with runs brushed out. When the product is applied heavily it is able to build sufficient film thickness to protect the wood and provide several years of good performance. One coat is generally too thin, leading to less durability, which means more frequent re-staining will be necessary.

On the interior, one coat either brushed or sprayed on is sufficient, followed by one to two coats of the Symphony clear coat.

Can I use Transformation Log & Timber over top of Capture Log Stain?2018-07-22T23:27:28-05:00

If the Capture Log Stain is in good shape, meaning there are few, if any, areas of bare wood and little discoloration, it is best to stick with what you started with. If, down the line, you have to completely strip the stain and are down to bare wood, it would then be OK to switch to any of our other stain products.

It is not wise to use an oil-based over top of a water-based stain because most water-bases are much more elastic than oil-bases. As the wood moves and breathes, the oil-based stain will be more rigid than the water-based stain and may cause the water-based product to peel under the pressure of being pulled with normal movement.

Can I put Capture Log Stain on my deck?2018-07-22T23:26:10-05:00

No. Capture Log Stain is formulated to provide the flexibility needed for log movement, and as a result, it is too soft to be put on horizontal wood decks. Capture Log Stain is not formulated to withstand the foot traffic and other extreme conditions on a deck. You can certainly use it on your deck railing system. If you choose to do this, you will want to implement some simple deck design tips (such as drilling weep holes) to help improve longevity.

Can I brush on your stains?2018-07-22T23:23:53-05:00

Yes, you can, so long as the coverage guidelines are still followed, i.e. if the coverage guidelines say you should be using between 20-25 gallons to cover your home, you should brush on that same amount, even if it means brushing on 3-4 coats.

Also, when brushing, be sure to use a good quality brush (such as Purdy brand) that has the split ends to soak up as much stain as possible. And, as with all stain application, be sure to thoroughly mix the stain with a drill-driven squirrel cage mixer before and during application, as well as box the same stain of different lot numbers. This will ensure an even, consistent color at all times.

Can I apply your products when it is cold?2018-07-22T23:22:21-05:00

With our water based products, only if you can ensure a surface temp between 40 degrees F and 90 degrees F. This usually means you have to tent the walls and heat them. Lexel and Through the ROOF! can be applied down to 0 degrees F.

Can I apply stain on top of your chinking and caulking products2018-07-22T23:21:19-05:00

Yes. Most all stains, and certainly all of Sashco’s stains, will adhere to both our chinking and caulking products. However, because those products are not porous like wood, the stain will not soak into it like it does to the wood and will give you a different look, so be sure to TEST FIRST to make sure staining over top will give you the desired look.

Do not stain over top of the chinking or caulking with an oil-based stain for at least 2 weeks to allow the product sufficient curing time, and up that to 1 month if staining over top with an oil-based polyurethane. With water-based coatings, 2 days’ cure time is usually fine.

Are water-based products bad?2018-07-22T23:20:21-05:00

If by “bad” you mean poor performing, no. Some water-based stains (like our Capture Log Stain / Cascade, Transformationg Siding & Trim, and Transformation Deck & Fence) will perform very well if good surface preparation is done and if they are applied in appropriate weather. On the other hand, it is also true that solvent-based stains (oil-based stains) are more forgiving when less-than-excellent surface preparation is done and when the weather is not as ideal.

Are there fungicides and mildewcides in your stain?2018-07-22T23:19:28-05:00

Yes. However, in many parts of the United States and Canada where the humidity and temperatures are high and mold and mildew is more prevalent, it is recommended to add additional fungicide to the stain. Sashco recommends Stay Clean I/E (available through Sashco resellers).

What amount of pressure should I use when power washing my log home?2018-07-22T23:17:22-05:00

Here are some general tips for power washing your log home:

  • Before you start, check the moisture wp-content of your wood using a moisture meter. Check various locations. (The south side of the home will be drier than the north side.)
  • Use a power washer with a fan wand (typically a 40° spray angle).
    If possible, use hot water. As with any cleaning, hot water is usually more effective and quicker than cold.
  • Always practice in an inconspicuous area first to master the technique.
  • The distance the wand tip is positioned from the log surface is the most important part of proper power washing! Power washers typically operate between 500 and 3000 psi. Find that distance from the surface where the high-speed water spray just begins to aggressively fuzz the wood, and then back off an inch or so – and then maintain that distance throughout the job.
  • As with any blasting, don’t stop or start in the middle of the wall. Spray the wood like you would when spraying paint, feathering it in and out of areas to keep a consistent look.
  • After power washing is complete, remove all felting that may be present with Buffy Pads, Osborn brushes, or sandpaper. Buffy Pads are the fastest and easiest system.
  • Allow the wood to thoroughly dry. Use a moisture meter to be sure the moisture wp-content level is back to where you started, and always below 19%.
  • Vacuum or blow standing water from upper-curvature checks right after power washing to avoid saturating the wood around those checks.
    Watch our videos on power washing and other types of wood prep for more details.
What is the insulation R-value of the chinking and backer rod?2018-07-22T23:15:32-05:00

Sashco’s thermodynamic analysis of this question has revealed the following:

a) A 9″ pine log has an overall R-value of about 11.2.

b) The overall R-value of Log Jam + Backer Rod + the dead air space between the lengths of Backer Rod is about 10.6.

c) The overall R-value of a log wall combining chinked joints and the logs themselves is about 11.1.

So, when Log Jam is properly installed with backer rod it has virtually no detrimental effect on the overall R-value of the wall.

Do you think I can chink on my own?2018-07-22T23:14:32-05:00

Yes. While it does take some practice to develop your skill, it is a task that most people can accomplish easily. Sashco’s info sheets give detailed information to help you learn this craft.

Why do I have to fill checks and cracks?2018-07-22T23:12:49-05:00

Checks allow moisture and wood-destroying fungi to find their way deep into the interior of wood. When fungi have a food source (the wood), moisture, oxygen and the right temperature, they can lead to rot, which, in some cases, can negatively affect the structural integrity of the home. And it can be very costly to fix rot. Filling in those checks and cracks will save you money and stress down the line.

What are checks? What do I do about them?2018-07-22T23:11:50-05:00

The word “check” is another way of describing the cracks that develop in individual logs. Most checks develop within the first one to two years after construction of the home, caused by the home drying out.

Checks generally form along the grain of the log and can range in size – they can be tiny hair-line cracks up to 2″ or wider. Sometimes, but not often, they can appear in a spiral fashion, swirling around the log. Checks should be caulked if they are over 1/4″ wide and if they are either on the upward curvature of the logs or if they spiral into the home.

In order to fill the checks, make sure that they are clean and free of any unsound wood fibers. The easiest way to ensure this is to sand the inside of the check, then wipe it down with a damp cloth. It is critical to determine that the moisture wp-content of the wood is below 19% in order to minimize further log movement and reduce the occurrence of blistering in the caulk. Insert backer rod or some form of bond breaker to the proper depth (between 1/4″ and 1/2″) and then apply a bead of caulking into the check. Finally, tool the caulking smooth so it is flush with the log.

Read the info sheet for the product you’re using before doing any caulking to ensure you’re applying it properly.

I have a full scribed (“chinkless”) log home. Do I need caulk?2018-07-22T23:10:51-05:00

Yes, at least in some areas

Do I have to fill all the tiny cracks?2018-07-22T23:09:43-05:00

It is good practice to seal with caulking or chinking (and backer rod) checks and cracks that are 1/4″ wide or wider, especially on the upper curvature of logs. Prior to sealing them, make sure to apply a good wood preservative (like Penetreat) to prevent insect and fungal damage. The very small micro-checks that are barely visible can usually be sealed adequately with whatever stain is applied to the surface of the logs. The most problematic checks are the “in-betweeners”

Are your stains and caulking compatible?2018-07-22T23:08:38-05:00

Yes. All of Sashco’s products are formulated to be compatible with one another. In fact, when our chinking and caulking are used with our stains, we give the chinking and caulking a limited lifetime warranty.

What can I use to remove silicone from my log home?2018-07-22T23:07:28-05:00

There are several brands on the market. We have tested a few of them, and the McKanica® brand stood out as the best to remove a variety of silicone residues from the surface. If you cannot find the McKanica® product, try to find a caulk remover that contains both alcohol and a solvent such as mineral spirits. The combination of alcohol and solvents is more potent and effective.

Are your chinking and caulking compatible with my stain?2018-07-22T23:06:24-05:00

There are many stain on the market with which our products will work well. In general, our products are compatible with other water-bases. Some oil-bases are OK, too. For information on compatibility with your specific product, contact Customer Service.

Why is it necessary to stain my logs?2018-07-22T23:04:40-05:00

There are many reasons why it’s necessary. For example:
1) Without a good coating on the exterior of logs, the wood will darken and degrade very quickly when left unprotected against the sun and weathering.
2) Uncoated wood absorbs much more water than coated wood does. When wood absorbs water it swells significantly and then shrinks again when dry weather returns. This repeated cycle leads to the development of many more checks and larger ones.
3) Without a coating on the exterior surface, sealants applied to the joints between logs or to large checks usually will have a very difficult time maintaining adhesion to the wood.
4) Coatings, by repelling a large volume of moisture, help prevent mold, mildew and rot from occurring.
5) Uncoated wood is an easy target for wood-ingesting insects.

Which of your stains can I use on my interior logs?2018-07-22T23:03:46-05:00

Both Capture and Transformation Siding & Trim are great for interior staining. Both need to be top-coated with Symphony to give the best appearance and make for easiest cleaning.

How do I tell if my logs are dry enough to stain?2018-07-22T23:02:41-05:00

There is no good way to know for sure unless you use a moisture meter that is designed for measuring the moisture wp-content of wood. If a moisture meter is not used, then there is always the risk that there is too much moisture in the logs.

Depending on your location, the moisture wp-content of your logs should be between 5-19%. (For example, in the super-dry and hot southwest Arizona, 5% is the safer number. In coastal Alaska, 19% is going to be about the norm.)

Is there anything I can mix in the stain or put over it to keep bugs off my logs?2018-07-22T23:01:43-05:00

There are insecticides that can be added to our stains that will help repel or kill insects. Sashco recommends a product called Bug Juice, available through most Sashco retailers.

In all cases, contact Customer Service at 1-800-767-5656 to find out if the product you’re using will be compatible with our stains. Not all additives will disperse properly, and some may affect the film of the stain, affecting long-term performance.

Do I have to stain before I recoat?2018-07-22T23:00:32-05:00

This all depends on the condition of the existing stain. If it is in reasonably good condition overall, then only modest prep work may be required

Can I put clear sealer on my logs?2018-07-22T22:59:35-05:00

If the clear sealer is only for the interior of the structure, that’s fine. If you are intending for this clear sealer to be the only coating on the exterior of the building, then we strongly discourage you from using it. Clear “stains” or sealers have virtually no UV protection and can lead to your wood being exposed to harsher elements, such as moisture and insects.

Can I brush on your stains?2018-07-22T22:58:40-05:00

Yes, you can, so long as the coverage guidelines are still followed, i.e. if the coverage guidelines say you should be using between 20-25 gallons to cover your home, you should brush on that same amount, even if it means brushing on 3-4 coats.

Also, when brushing, be sure to use a good quality brush (such as Purdy brand) that has the split ends to soak up as much stain as possible. And, as with all stain application, be sure to thoroughly mix the stain with a drill-driven squirrel cage mixer before and during application, as well as box the same stain of different lot numbers. This will ensure an even, consistent color at all times.

Are water-based products bad?2018-07-22T22:57:49-05:00

If by “bad” you mean poor performing, no. Some water-based stains (like our Capture Log Stain / Cascade, Transformationg Siding & Trim, and Transformation Deck & Fence) will perform very well if good surface preparation is done and if they are applied in appropriate weather. On the other hand, it is also true that solvent-based stains (oil-based stains) are more forgiving when less-than-excellent surface preparation is done and when the weather is not as ideal.

Are there fungicides and mildewcides in your stain?2018-07-22T22:57:00-05:00

Yes. However, in many parts of the United States and Canada where the humidity and temperatures are high and mold and mildew is more prevalent, it is recommended to add additional fungicide to the stain. Sashco recommends Stay Clean I/E (available through Sashco resellers).

Why is it necessary to stain my logs?2018-07-22T22:46:05-05:00

There are many reasons why it’s necessary. For example:
1) Without a good coating on the exterior of logs, the wood will darken and degrade very quickly when left unprotected against the sun and weathering.
2) Uncoated wood absorbs much more water than coated wood does. When wood absorbs water it swells significantly and then shrinks again when dry weather returns. This repeated cycle leads to the development of many more checks and larger ones.
3) Without a coating on the exterior surface, sealants applied to the joints between logs or to large checks usually will have a very difficult time maintaining adhesion to the wood.
4) Coatings, by repelling a large volume of moisture, help prevent mold, mildew and rot from occurring.
5) Uncoated wood is an easy target for wood-ingesting insects.

What is the best way to treat log ends?2018-07-22T22:44:40-05:00

The cut ends of logs can be an easy entry point for moisture to get into the interior of the logs

I have a leak in my new log home when there is a hard blowing rain. How do I find the leak and how do I stop it?2018-07-22T22:43:20-05:00

This can sometimes be difficult because where the water comes through on the interior does not always correspond very well to where it enters the wall on the exterior.

It’s best practice to seal up all visible openings with chinking and caulking, making sure the wood is dry first. If this doesn’t stop the rain from making its way inside, then you might consider having a thermographic analysis of your home performed. This analysis would help you pinpoint the exact entry points so you can get them properly sealed up.

Contact Customer Service at 1-800-767-5656 for more information about this type of service and for the names of contractors who do this type of analysis.

Can I apply your products when it is cold?2018-07-22T22:42:06-05:00

With our water based products, only if you can ensure a surface temp between 40 degrees F and 90 degrees F. This usually means you have to tent the walls and heat them. Lexel and Through the ROOF! can be applied down to 0 degrees F.

Are there other types of media blasting that can be used on log or wood structures?2018-07-22T22:41:10-05:00

Yes. Walnut shell, soda and dry ice blasting are other types of blasting that are gentle enough to be used on log and wood structures.

Can I apply your products when it is cold?2018-07-22T22:32:42-05:00

With our water based products, only if you can ensure a surface temp between 40 degrees F and 90 degrees F. This usually means you have to tent the walls and heat them.

Can I mix the Cascade and Capture Log Stain?2018-07-22T22:30:49-05:00

No, mixing the two will reduce the performance of both.

Title

Go to Top